MY ISRAEL:
MAHANE YEHUDA: a Jerusalem landmark.
Undoubtedly the most famous market in all Israel and referred to as” the Shuk” (the market) by locals. The market is sandwiched between Agrippa’s street in the south and Jaffa road in the north & located 2 kilometers west of the Old city. (REFER TO THUMBNAIL SKETCH PLAN).
In 1877 Bet Yaakov, located on the south side of Jaffa road became the ninth Jewish neighborhood established outside the Old City walls. A vacant plot of land lay alongside Bet Yaacov’s eastern boundary & extended from Jaffa road in the north to Agrippa’s street in the south. In 1887 Johannes Frutiger, a German protestant banker together with Shalom Konstrum & Joseph Navon, two Jewish businessmen embarked on a venture to develop the neighborhood & founded Mahane Yehuda. Named after Joseph Navon’s brother, the new neighborhood was located on the north side of Jaffa road, opposite the vacant plot. Towards the end of the 19th century, the vacant plot provided the premises for the Bet Yaakov market. (REFER TO THUMBNAIL SKETCH PLAN).
During the latter part of the Ottoman period, which began in 1516 & ended in 1917, the market expanded haphazardly creating hygienic conditions that left much to be desired. In the 1920’s, during the British mandate period (1917 – 1948), the authorities cleared out all the merchants and built permanent stores that were roofed. From this point onwards, the Bet Yaakov market adopted the name Mahane Yehudah Market.
In 1931 a new section was introduced into the market called the Iraqi sector, as the traders were of Iraqi descent, & the mid 2000’s saw the arrival of Ethiopian food sellers in and around the market.
Major renovations to the market in early 2000, included improvements to the infrastructure, the repaving of roads and the covering of some open areas. Some of these improvements made in response to terrorist attacks in 1997 & 2002 that resulted in the deaths of 23 people & a decrease in the number of shoppers & tourists that came to the market. In addition, the market’s Board of Directors decided to broaden the market’s image by introducing café’s, boutiques, restaurants and places of entertainment. This done to compliment the many Humus, Falafel, Shawarma & Kebab eateries which had been an integral part of the market from its beginnings. For any food lover, a visit to one of these eateries is imperative.
Today, the market is home to approximately 250 vendors. The fresh fruit & vegetable stores imbue the market with an array of many different colours as do the different spices, which in addition, infuse the air with smells so characteristic of the Middle East. Other produce includes fish, meat, cheeses, nuts, dried fruit, wines & liquors.
Bakeries supply the shoppers with a variety of breads as well as Knafeh & Baklava.
Kanafeh is a traditional Middle Eastern dessert made with shredded filo pastry, or alternatively fine semolina dough, soaked in sweet, sugar-based syrup, and typically layered with cheese, or with other ingredients such as clotted cream or nuts, depending on the region.
Baklava is a layered pastry dessert made of filo pastry, filled with chopped nuts, and sweetened with syrup or honey.
In addition, the market is also home to the largest and most diverse types of Halva.
Halva is a traditional Middle Eastern fudge-like confection made with tahini (sesame seed paste), sugar, spices and nuts. Halva’s semisweet, nutty flavor and crumbly, fluffy texture are what make it a uniquely delicious treat.
Besides the vast array food products, the Mahane Yehuda market is the place to experience the diversity and richness of Israeli society. On Thursdays and Friday morning, shoppers inundate the market to purchase food for the Shabbat. A scenario repeated before every Jewish holiday. The last fifteen or so years have seen the market transformed into a “night spot” with the introduction of restaurants, bars, live music & dance performances. Urban artwork has been encouraged by inviting students from art schools in the area to decorate walls, concrete surfaces and even trash bins. From 2015 onwards, the metal shutters that protect the shop fronts depict spray-painted portraits of famous people, & have become an after-hours attraction.
An interesting structure is located on the northern side of Jaffa road opposite the Jaffa street entrances to the market. The building façade contains a 5 meter diameter sundial. The structure, built by Rabbi Shmuel Levi from 1908 to 1917, originally served as a hostel & synagogue for new immigrants. Today it is solely a synagogue holding services throughout the day.
Ron Traub (Tour Guide & Architect). Website: rontraub-tours.com Photo’s: Rimonah Traub. Thumbnail sketch plan: Ron Traub.
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